Sunday, February 17, 2013

Culinary Throwback

Growing up in Chicago, one of my favorite places to go for dinner was a place called Hackney's on Lake. Hackney's is an old family restaurant, still in existence with several locations in the Chicago area. They were always really busy and my Dad would put our name in and we'd sit waiting for our name to be called.

Hackney's has an Irish theme, and the restaurant on Lake has several dining rooms. When your name was called over the loud speaker, it was announced with a dining room destination. I can still remember being so intrigued by all the names of the dining rooms...they sounded so mysterious and exotic! I always hoped we'd be called to the Shillelagh Room because I loved how it sounded. Sheh-Lay-La Room. Like Shangri La.

Hackney's is famous for their Hackney burger and their loaves of fried onions.  A loaf of fried onions were very thinly sliced onions, tossed in very light batter, packed into a deep fryer basket (which is shaped like a loaf), fried and turned out onto a plate with paper towels and served in all it's greasy glory. We'd get a half-loaf and I can still remember my Dad groaning in pleasure as he dug in.

A Hackney's burger is a half-pound beast, grilled and topped with sauteed onions, a slice of American cheese on their homemade dark pumpernickel rye. They are the stuff of legends. They are the stuff of dreams.

Given that we live about 6 hours from the nearest Hackney's, I have to get my fix somehow.

Last night I made Hackney burgers. (I skipped the onion loaf--it seemed gastrointestinally prudent.)
Here's the recipe; enjoy. (And we ate them all up before I took pictures! Use your imagination!)


My Version of Hackney's Burgers
 

This makes enough for 3-1/3 pound hamburgers. We each ate one and HB has one extra for lunch this week.

1 pound of good quality hamburger-80/20 mix. I use Thousand Hills Beef from Minnesota
1 Medium Sweet or Red onion, thinly sliced
3 T Vegetable or Olive Oil
Kosher Salt
Sharp Cheddar American Cheese
Dark Pumpernickel Bread (I like Pepperidge Farm)

You will need two skillets, one preferably should be cast iron.

In the non-cast iron skillet, heat 2 T of the oil and add the onions. Saute over medium heat, stirring frequently until lightly browned. Sprinkle lightly with kosher salt, turn down heat and continue to saute on very low heat until soft and caramel colored. Stir frequently but carefully not to break down the onions as they soften.

Meanwhile, begin preheating the cast iron skillet.

Open the beef package and do not handle the beef! If you have a one pound package, using a sharp knife, cut the beef into three equal-sized portions.  Carefully flatten to 1/2" thickness, smoothing edges. Make a large indentation in the center, which leaves it thinner in the middle than on the sides. This helps prevent your burger from becoming a hockey puck! Overworking ground beef results in tough burgers--just flatten. Sprinkle each burger with a generous sprinkle of kosher salt. Shape the burger in an oblong shape to match the bread.

Add 2-3 additional T of vegetable oil to the cast iron skillet and swirl. Add the burgers. They will sizzle!  Leave on medium high heat to caramelize the beef. Cook about 3 minutes and gently turn the burgers. If they stick, leave them another minute..they will release when they are ready to turn. Cook on second side about 4 minutes. Turn once again and cook another 2-3 minutes until an internal temperature of 155 degrees. (If you don't have one, get an instant read stick thermometer. They are the cheapest way to avoid E coli.) Remove from heat.

Top each burger with equal portions of the sauteed onions and top with 1 1/2 slices of American cheese. Allow to rest a minute or two to melt the cheese and relax the burger. Serve on the pumpernickel bread with ketchup and large sliced kosher dill pickles.

These are the best burgers you will ever have. Promise.

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